Food Porn: Going for the Money Shot

Steve:

“A picture is worth a thousand words,” or so the old adage follows. Who would ever think that such a simple saying could spark so much controversy? But when UlteriorEpicure posted on eGullet announcing that Momofuku Ko had a new policy banning photography in the restaurant both Eater and Serious Eats picked up the story and ran with it. Suddenly food bloggers and obsessed foodies alike were up in arms against this policy prohibiting them from memorializing their latest and greatest meal. However, Chang is the not the only chef giving the cold shoulder to the food paparazzi. Others include Masa Takayama, chef at Masa, Paul Liebrandt, chef at Corton and Veloce Pizzeria. The comments ran the gamut of support to disgust. There were stories of dining experiences that had gone awry due to the incessant flashes from a camera, while others expounded on the right to take pictures of any food they had paid for. We at Law & Food understand that discussion over the legitimacy of taking photographs in restaurants had already been touched on (Links Above), however, the topic was deemed important enough to merit further discussion.


Ever since Noah and I had been going on food excursions in Manhattan, I had always taken my camera with me. Despite Noah’s teasing and comments about how I kept him from eating while I snapped away on my camera, I kept taking pictures of the food we ate. Having differing opinions on the subject we agreed to post about photography in restaurants and what the proper etiquette is, if it should be allowed at all. I belong to the camp that believes people should be allowed to take pictures of their food in restaurants…that is, as long as they adhere to some basic guidelines. Simply put, I believe anyone should be allowed to take pictures in restaurants as long as they conduct themselves respectfully.

I started taking pictures of food accidentally. I was lucky enough to spend my last semester of law school in Tokyo, Japan and with about two months left I realized I’d barely taken any pictures. Sure, I had snapped a few shots of Hachiko and the Tokyo Tower but I wanted to try and capture the side of Tokyo that I grew to know and love from working and living there and just not some cliché photo set of something out of Lonely Planet. I believe that food is more indicative of a country and its culture than even the most famous landmark. If people are the best representation of a country, then the food those people eat is the essence of that country.

So how exactly does someone “respectfully” take pictures in a restaurant? (Please note that these aren't rules but rather tips when taking photos.)

Turn off the FLASH! Far and away the most popular complaint of others. Hypothetical question: how appealing is the idea of eating a meal with a strobe light in the background sound to you? That’s what I thought, not so much. Aside from being rude flash also drowns out and distorts the pictures being taken, so in addition to being a douche bag you’re also taking shitty pictures.

Additionally, don’t get out of your seat or take a million shots to get the perfect picture.

Try to refrain from taking pictures of employees or other patrons without their consent.

Finally, respect house rules. So as much as I wanted to take pictures of each course at Momofuku Ko I respected their policy, even if I didn’t agree with it. Restaurants are not public space and as such you are a guest of the chef whenever you walk into their restaurant and are subject to their rules. Banning photography is not unconstitutional in restaurants so just respect their wishes and put the camera away.

Now I understand the counter argument; that taking photos is an unnatural practice and takes away from the actual dining experience. Honestly, I still feel self-conscious whipping out my camera whenever I go out to eat. But unlike Noah I think taking pictures, if done respectfully, doesn’t have to create an inorganic culinary experience. In fact, I believe taking pictures at a meal is less disruptive than say talking on a cell phone or playing with a blackberry or iphone. Instead, I think the focus given towards the pictures I take make me more conscious of the food and the various component of the dishes so I appreciate them more. So keep taking pictures of food if you like -- or don't if you’re against the idea -- just try to be considerate of others if you do, and hopefully this policy won’t expand.

Noah:

Taking pictures in restaurants has always made me uncomfortable. Yes, stereotypes about Midwesterners are accurate: we loathe drawing unnecessary attention to ourselves. It’s also more likely that other diners (in the Midwest) will gawk at the picture-taker, rather then say anything (management is usually too surprised to do anything either). We’re just passive aggressive that way, and while life in the city has definitely made me more aggressive, deep down I’m still a low-key Midwesterner.

Steve mentioned the “organic” experience. While it seems stupid, there is such a thing. It’s the total sensory experience, a specific time, mood and place that can’t be recreated, even with a picture. I’ve written about the memories matzoh ball soup evokes for me, but a picture of my grandmother’s matzoh ball soup-- while it may jolt certain memories for me-- will never have the same effect as curling up with a bowl on a Sunday afternoon. Similarly, pictures from Eleven Madison Park will never recreate the full sensory experience of the actual meal. The hope to summon the memories by pictures alone seems almost desperate, and I’d rather remember the meal on its own terms.

Oddly enough, taking photos of your meal shifts the focus away from food and onto the diner. The meal becomes less about the experience, instead the key is for the diner getting the right picture. Yet, when eating at Eleven Madison Park, I want to be 100% in the moment, focusing on the experience, rather than worrying about my next photo or attracting attention to myself. This seems especially true in Flushing, where I stick out already, as the lone, tall white guy wandering down Main Street. I specifically remember a meal at Nan Xiang Xiao Laong Bao where Steve started taking pictures, and it seemed as if the entire restaurant’s eyes moved towards us, with our waitress asking us in (very) broken English, why we were taking pictures. That’s not usually how I like to call attention to myself. (In fact, I firmly believe that The M&T Experience would not have happened if I was snapping pictures the whole meal).

So for me, (who doesn’t even own a camera), I will continue to take pictures of food I make (or carry-out) with my MacBook’s camera, and try to stay as low-key as possible while eating out. Hopefully I can document the experience more fully by just being in the moment, rather than focusing on the next picture.

Food photography fair or foul? Let us know your thoughts.