In the restaurant wasteland otherwise known as New York's Financial District, SHO Shaun Hergatt has been become a food sanctuary. Here, Australian chef Shaun Hergatt forges French technique with Asian influences to produce some of the best food to be had in Manhattan. Garnering multiple awards including a 29/30 for food in the latest Zagat Survey as well as a Michelin Star in 2010, it came as quite a surprise when New York Times food critic Sam Sifton gave the restaurant a meager two star review. Immediate backlash ensued on Eater forums with Josh Ozersky arguing against Sifton's review; insisting that SHO was worthy of three stars. After having read Sifton's review of SHO and having had the pleasure of dining at the restaurant on multiple occasions I feel compelled to weigh in on the subject. If restaurants are to be judged based solely on the food that they serve, instead of the their ambiance and clientele they attract (Sir Paul McCartney in sneakers) then SHO Shaun Hergett is deserving of at least three stars.
I agree with Ozersky that the crux of Sifton's two star review stemmed less from the food than his own prejudice against the opulent nature of the restaurant and its cuisine. It seems that in the wake of Lehman Brothers, Freddie Mac and AIG, the zeitgeist (repeatedly referenced by Ozersky) has rallied against such white-linen establishments, preferring pork belly to a côte de boeuf. But even in hard times such as these, there always will be a demand and a need for such fine dining restaurants and I hope in spite of Sifton's tepid review, SHO Shaun Hergatt will continue to thrive.
