Scarpetta: The Importance of a Signature Dish

From falafal to french toast, certain dishes at restaurants become so popular that they eventually transcend just being food and become somewhat of a signature. Nowadays, while it seems that just about every restaurant has their own signature dish, only a handful of these actually manage to live up to all the hype. Still, everyone seems to agree-- positively I might add-- on one so-called signature dish: Scott Conant's spaghetti with tomato and basil. Staking one's reputation on something as ubiquitous as spaghetti means you better have the best damn version of this pasta to warrant both its effusive praise and $24 price tag. Though personal preferences and tastes will ultimately dictate whether you believe this dish to be as good as everyone says, rest assured, even the other (non-signature?) food at Scarpetta is delicious, and is worthy of a visit alone.

Did I Mention I Like to Eat Burgers? Shake Shack UES, J.G. Melon & Bill's Bar & Burger

Late Summer in the Upper East Side smells mainly of dog piss (with the occasional, surprise whiff of crap exciting the senses). Really, not to get graphic, but as I'm typing outside in the East 80's it smells like a dog is pissing in my nostrils.

Lately, however, the powerful smell of cooking burgers has replaced the official scent of the UES along a busy stretch of East 86th Street. Of course I'm talking about the new Shake Shack. With the opening of the fourth Manhattan branch earlier this month (and more on the way), the Shack has assured its near total domination of the NYC burger scene. Yet, like I said in my previous post discussing Shake Shack ad naseum, this is not a bad thing-- as it has forced others to up their game, competing in an ever intensifying burger arms race which can only result in MAD, or Mutually Assured Deliciousness. (A terrible Cold War reference/joke, I know.)

I'd rather not speculate as to how many times we've used this picture.

Colicchio & Sons Just Doesn't Add Up

At this point of his career it's debatable whether Tom Colicchio is better known as the head judge for the popular reality-based television series, Top Chef or for his culinary skills that garnered him fame as the executive chef of Gramercy Tavern. One may surmise that the inspiration behind Colicchio's newest restaurant, Colicchio & Sons, came from a desire to resolve this identity crisis and reclaim his status as one of New York's premier chefs. Having previously ranted about the seemingly arbitrary rating system of New York Times food critic, Sam Sifton, I was predictably floored when he awarded Colicchio & Sons three stars, recommending the $135/person tasting menu after having just penalized SHO Shaun Hergatt for having such an ostentatious concept in this economy. With my interest peaked, I looked forward to a dinner at Colicchio & Sons with MW, YW and JC to see if the new restaurant deserved such lofty praise and whether Colicchio had successfully reclaimed his identity behind the stove instead of the television camera.