David Burke Townhouse: Let's Get Past the Whimsy

I'll be honest, David Burke Townhouse on the Upper East Side is not a restaurant I would choose on my own. Every review I've ever read about Burke's cooking uses the terms "whimsical" and "playful," not the first adjectives that come to mind when I'm deciding where to eat for dinner (I prefer "meat-laden" or "marrow filled"). But I'm always game, so last weekend, at Future Partner's (FP) suggestion, we found ourselves hustling for a black car after seemingly every cab on our stretch of 6th Avenue was taken. I showcased my haggling skills, and soon we were heading up Park Avenue.

Arriving at the restaurant we were immediately led down two short flights of stairs to a cherry-colored banquette in the corner of the main dining room. Flanked by two tall mirrors, and a dominating fireplace, Townhouse was brightly lit and loud, but not overbearingly so, and overall very comfortable.

While we decided on cocktails, we were presented with a celery root soup amuse bouche with black truffle foam. A rich start to an even richer meal.

A special appetizer of milk "peed" (I swear I'm not crazy, the menu said peed) baby pork belly with polenta and paprika jus featured quite possibly the single highest quality piece of pork belly I've ever eaten. The polenta was lukewarm (as it tends to be), but the belly was so good I can forgive that minor issue. I think I chose wisely after vacillating between the pork belly and a pastrami salmon appetizer.

Yakitori Tori Shin: Stickin' with Chicken

With all due respect to vegetarians, but there's something irresistible about meat cooked over an open flame. That smokey perfume that wafts from the flames, the "crackles" and "pops" from the meat as it cooks, makes the act of grilling a complete sensory experience. But despite the fact that Americans pride themselves as being the undisputed kings of charcoal, to me, its the Japanese who have truly perfected this form of cooking. Rest assured, this is nothing like your typical backyard barbecue where the finished product ends up tasting like nothing but lighter fluid. No, using only organic chicken and importing their charcoal directly from Japan, yakitori, or "grilled chicken," is something the Japanese have down to a science. Fortunately, for New Yorkers at least, there are several respectable yakitori restaurants more than capable of satisfying your craving. So after having enjoyed Yakitori Totto, it was finally time to pay a visit to yet another master yakitoriya, chef and owner Shu Ikeda, of Yakatori Tori Shin.

Did I Mention I Like to Eat Burgers? Shake Shack UES, J.G. Melon & Bill's Bar & Burger

Late Summer in the Upper East Side smells mainly of dog piss (with the occasional, surprise whiff of crap exciting the senses). Really, not to get graphic, but as I'm typing outside in the East 80's it smells like a dog is pissing in my nostrils.

Lately, however, the powerful smell of cooking burgers has replaced the official scent of the UES along a busy stretch of East 86th Street. Of course I'm talking about the new Shake Shack. With the opening of the fourth Manhattan branch earlier this month (and more on the way), the Shack has assured its near total domination of the NYC burger scene. Yet, like I said in my previous post discussing Shake Shack ad naseum, this is not a bad thing-- as it has forced others to up their game, competing in an ever intensifying burger arms race which can only result in MAD, or Mutually Assured Deliciousness. (A terrible Cold War reference/joke, I know.)

I'd rather not speculate as to how many times we've used this picture.

Daniel: A Dining Experience Comes Full Circle

From the doormats outside to the plates on each table, a dotted circle adorns just about everything at Daniel Boulud's eponymous restaurant, Daniel. Adam Tihany (who also assisted Thomas Keller with Per Se) oversaw Daniel's redesign and introduced the circular motif to the restaurant. The circle seems an appropriate symbol for both Boulud's rise to stardom as well as the meal MW and I enjoyed there last weekend. Although born in France, there are few chefs who personify Manhattan's fine dining scene more than Daniel Boulud; with last year's opening of DBGB marking his fifth restaurant in New York. Boulud's current status as a super chef should come as no surprise to New Yorkers as he has gone from cooking at one of the city's best restaurants (Le Cirque) to now owning one of the city's best; a statement reaffirmed last year when Daniel (already a 4 star recipient from the New York Times) received three Michelin stars. But it wasn't the awards that drew me to Daniel, rather it was his infectious passion for food that I admired after watching three seasons of his television series, After Hours with Daniel.

Upon our arrival we were greeted and had our coats taken. On the way to our table we passed by the lounge area that was adjacent to the lighted bar. As MW and I were led into the main dining room I was struck by the design. High ceilings combined with a series of arches and columns surrounding the main dining area, creating a breathtaking sight. Bright whites and the finest silver lay on each table yet modern art hung on the walls; the atmosphere seemed both sophisticated and edgy at the same time. While many of the other tables seemed to be ordering cocktails, MW and I opted for two glasses of wine to accompany our meal: starting with a Zilliken, Riesling Kabinett "Saarburger Rausch," Saar, Germany 2001 and ending with a Bosquet des Papes, "Cuvée Grenache," Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône 2000. Executive Chef Jean Francois Bruel offers a three-course prix fixe menu or various tasting menus (six or eight-courses). We chose the six-course tasting menu and supplemented a cheese course. For each course there were two different options, effectively doubling the amount of courses we were able to try.