Totto Ramen: Slurps of Satisfaction

"New York City is full of crazy trends..." sarcastically remarked a man walking past me last Friday evening. This comment, while not entirely untrue, was in obvious reference to the large crowd amassed outside of Totto Ramen, the popular Japanese restaurant in Hell's Kitchen. While it seems that virtually all of New York is obsessed with Ippudo's porky Hakata-style ramen in their sheik downtown digs, count me as part of the dissenting minority who believes that Totto's chicken-based ramen is consistently serving up the better bowl.

Kajitsu: Hope Springs Eternal

Despite some recent traction, vegetarian cuisine, let alone vegan, has always been a tough sell to the vast majority of Americans. However, a few select restaurants thrive by embracing this cuisine, capturing a loyal following along the way.

One such restaurant is Kajitsu. Specializing in shojin cuisine, a traditional style of cooking originally eaten by Japanese Buddhist monks, they're producing some of the freshest most delicious food in all of New York. This honor is due large in part to the restaurant's talented Executive Chef, Masato Nishihara. With an extensive background in both kaiseki and soba, Chef Nishihara trained at several prominent restaurants in Japan before finding himself in Manhattan's East Village. Constantly innovating, Chef Nishihara creates an original kaiseki-inspired menu each month, never repeating a single dish. This creativity is but one detail that has helped earn Kajitsu two Michelin stars in 2011 and brought shojin cuisine out of relative obscurity and onto the culinary map.

Yuba: Caviar, Foie Gras and Truffles! Oh My!

Named after the Japanese tofu skin, Yuba is a relatively new Japanese restaurant located in the East Village. Opened by two ex-Masa veterans, George Ruan (Masa) and Jack Wei (Bar Masa), Yuba hasgarnered plenty of media attention given the chefs impressive pedigree. Having spent years learning from Masa Takayama himself, Chef Ruan works the restaurant's small sushi bar while Chef Wei mans the kitchen in the back. Since I had never experienced Masa's $450 omakase (not including tax, tip, supplements, alcohol or a 20% service charge), MW and I were very interested in sampling the duo's luxurious cuisine, albeit at a much more modest price point.

Yakitori Tori Shin: Stickin' with Chicken

With all due respect to vegetarians, but there's something irresistible about meat cooked over an open flame. That smokey perfume that wafts from the flames, the "crackles" and "pops" from the meat as it cooks, makes the act of grilling a complete sensory experience. But despite the fact that Americans pride themselves as being the undisputed kings of charcoal, to me, its the Japanese who have truly perfected this form of cooking. Rest assured, this is nothing like your typical backyard barbecue where the finished product ends up tasting like nothing but lighter fluid. No, using only organic chicken and importing their charcoal directly from Japan, yakitori, or "grilled chicken," is something the Japanese have down to a science. Fortunately, for New Yorkers at least, there are several respectable yakitori restaurants more than capable of satisfying your craving. So after having enjoyed Yakitori Totto, it was finally time to pay a visit to yet another master yakitoriya, chef and owner Shu Ikeda, of Yakatori Tori Shin.

EN Japanese Brasserie: Style Over Substance

Tucked away on the corner of Hudson Street in the West Village lies EN Japanese Brasserie, the American outpost of this Japanese franchise. Serving upscale izakaya fare in a sleek space, decorated with Japanese motifs, its exactly the kind of restaurant which makes me skeptical. But having heard positive reviews of EN's homemade tofu as well as the their original cocktails, MW and I arrived with open minds and empty stomachs only to walk away unimpressed.

The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton: Survival of the Fittest

If food trucks were last year's hot trend, then this year may be remembered as the rise of hotel-restaurants. The likes of Bloomfield (The Breslin/Ace Hotel), Chang (Má Pêche/Chambers Hotel) and Vongerichten (The Mark Restaurant/Hotel) are just some of the culinary titans to recently embrace this movement in New York. But San Francisco also boasts their own array of such ventures, with Michael Mina's flagship restaurant located in the Westin St. Francis and since 2004, chef Ron Siegel has run the kitchen at The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton after having spent time at Aqua, Charles Nob Hill and Masa's. Thomas Keller's original sous chef at The French Laundry, Siegel made a name for himself in 1998 by becoming the first American chef to earn a victory in the original Iron Chef series, defeating Iron Chef French, Hiroyuki Sakai in a lobster battle. Siegel is known for combing French techniques with Japanese elements and although I tend to be reluctant about eating at hotels, positive review after positive review prompted me to see first hand what all the fuss was about.

Kaiseki at Kyo Ya

Kaiseki. A simple yet mysterious word to most Americans, "kaiseki" refers to a traditional Japanese multi-course meal emphasizing only the freshest seasonal ingredients served in various preparations. I've been puzzled by the lack of New York restaurants specializing in kaiseki considering America's fascination with "omakase," the Japanese equivalent to a tasting menu.

My initial kaiseki experience was at a ryokan, or a traditional Japanese inn, in Kyoto, Japan. Upon my return to Tokyo, I was fortunate enough to try a modern-day interpretation of a kaiseki meal at Nihonryori RyuGin (Two Michelin Stars) and was blown away by the exotic ingredients, stunning presentations and incredible flavors. So when I read about Kyo Ya, an almost hidden gem of a restaurant specializing in kaiseki, my reservation was all but booked.

Yakitori Totto: Food Just Tastes Better on a Stick

One of the foods I miss most from my time in Tokyo is yakitori. The Japanese word, "yaki" means grilled, and there are thousands of these tiny smoke-filled huts grilling just about everything you would want to eat across the country. But where should a New Yorker turn to when they crave yakitori? Perhaps the Japan-centric East Village or Lower East Side? Nope, contrary to what one might believe, I think that a small restaurant in Midtown West serves some of the best yakitori in all of New York. I'm talking about Yakitori Totto, a restaurant visited by the likes of Thomas Keller and Anthony Bourdain. But Yakitori Totto has been on my radar long before these ringing endorsements.

Wanting to go early before they ran out of popular items, I finally found the perfect opportunity after returning from a Braves/Mets game at Citi Field. The restaurant opens its door for dinner at 5:30 p.m. and I would suggest you get there quickly to put your name down. In our case, MW and I arrived a mere 15 minutes after opening only to discover an hour wait. We decided to put our names down and give the hostess our phone number while we grabbed a drink or two from a nearby bar.

Our patience was rewarded with delicious food.

Sushi Yasuda: Eating my Words Piece by Piece...

"I'll never eat sushi in New York again." These are the infamous words I uttered to Chief upon my return from Japan. Did I come across as being a sushi snob and end up eating crow? Yes, however, after having the pleasure of eating some of the finest sushi in Japan it seemed somewhat justified at the time. That is, however, until I ate at Sushi Yasuda. Located only a block away from Grand Central, MW and I found ourselves at this hidden sushi haven on a Saturday evening. No sign signifying the building was Yasuda, only a single fish which symbolically captures the medium through which Yasuda-san and his staff work their artistry.

Ask anyone where the best sushi in New York is and you'll likely get a plethora of responses. Some may suggest Sushi of Gari, others insist on Kuruma Zushi and the few who've had the luck (and money) to eat there swear by Masa. Instead of arguing over something as subjective as where the best sushi was, I focused my search on where the most traditional sushi was. The fruits of my labor led me to Yasuda and after making a reservation at the sushi bar I wholeheartedly concur; Sushi Yasuda provides a traditional Japanese sushi experience like no other I've experienced in New York.

The interior at Sushi Yasuda was soothing to the eyes; modern and minimalistic, light-colored wood enveloped the restaurant. While there are a few tables the centerpiece of the restaurant is the sushi bar, highlighted by five to six sushi chefs working under spotlights. For full disclosure MW and I were not seated in front of nor was our sushi prepared by Yasuda-san. In fact, upon confirming my reservations I was told by the receptionist that Yasuda-san does not even work on Saturday evenings. Disappointed but not shaken, MW and I were led to inside to the "L-shaped" sushi bar and were immediately given a hot towel for our hands and a pot of Green Tea. MW and I had our minds set on ordering the omakase and leaving the meal in the hands of our capable sushi chef. As much as I like to think I know about sushi I freely admit that I know next to nothing about sake and am usually intimidated by this decision. However, there are only a few selections to choose from at Yasuda and even better they are all $10. MW and I asked our sushi chef for a sake recommendation and he suggested a cold, dry sake from Hokkaido which ended up pairing beautifully with our meal.

Zenkichi: A Taste of Japan

Japanese food. Loved by practically every New Yorker, it seems there is a sushi joint located next to the ubiquitous bodega and laundry mat lining every block. I had the pleasure of living and eating my way through Tokyo for almost half a year and think I know a thing or two about Japanese cuisine; so when I left Zenkichi, I felt as if I had was back in Japan. Self-described as a modern Japanese brasserie, Zenkichi offers both a-la-carte and tasting menu options. The omakase menu changes every six weeks to accommodate products at the height of their freshness and MW and I ate the late-winter menu that emphasized some of our favorite ingredients: sea urchin, oysters and scallops.

One regret during my time in Japan was not traveling to Hokkaido to eat fresh uni (sea urchin) and scallops; considered the best in all Japan. Before entering the bamboo-lined exterior of Zenkichi in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, I read the current omakase menu consisted of Hokkaido scallops, Kumamoto oysters and uni from Aomori. It may be more than a mere coincidence that the word "zen" is found within the restaurant name. Entry to Zenkichi is a shock to the senses; darkness save dimly lit lanterns and spotlights on bamboo combined with the sound of water falling transport you from the concrete jungle outside to an intimate space within. Even seating is intimate as parties are led to booths entered though a curtain, shielding you from all other diners. The difference between a good dining experience and a great one is all about the details; something that Zenkichi understands well. One component of eating out that may be the most controversial and subjective is service. Service often toes the line between being too attentive (aka hovering) to non-existent. To remedy this issue Zenkichi, like many restaurants in Japan and Korea employs a silent ringer at each table where guests can summon the server when needed and are otherwise left to enjoy each other's company.

 

Dinner Tonight: Menchanko-Tei Ramen

I braved (ok, I walked a block and a half) the Great Blizzard of '10 to get some Hakata ramen from Menchanko-Tei. The broth was good, very rich and with that nice creamy taste that Hakata ramen is known for, it was even better with a bunch of togarashi. The noodles were packed separately and had congealed a little by the time I got home, but eventually broke up when put in the hot broth. The slices of pork were the only bad part, gristly and flavorless. I also got fried squid "legs" for some reason. They consisted of chunks of 2 tentacles a piece, and were well-fried, except they were lacking sauce (only a lemon was provided).

I didn't take a picture, but this is from Midtown Lunch:


Menchanko-Tei
131 E. 45th St. (btw Lex & 3rd)
212-986-6805

Dinner Tonight: Salmon Neck and Rice Balls

Two fatty broiled salmon necks with a slice of lemon for $4.99 from Dainobu, a Japanese grocery store in midtown. I also got a couple of soft-shell crab rice balls. Murray the cat loved the fattiest bits off the bone.

(There are better pictures of him, I swear).

Dainobu
129 East 47th Street (btwn 3rd and Lex.)
(212) 755-7380