A First Meal at Masten Lake

While looking for a small group dinner, Steve suggested Masten Lake, a new restaurant in Williamsburg featuring an Italian inflected menu by Chef Angelo Romano, formerly of Lupa and Roberta's. Entering the restaurant, previously a bar on Bedford Avenue, just south of the main drag, we found the room to be plain, but pleasant. Especially nice were the benches and groups of booths parallel to the long bar, providing comfort and privacy.

The menu is conveniently divided into "Cold," "Hot," "Pasta" and "Protein" sections for today's on-the-go diner. We ultimately elected to order every dish from each category except for the Cold, which, due to insurmountable differences in cuisine preference, we couldn't agree on a single dish. I hate hearts of palm, someone else doesn't like cucumbers. So it goes.

Let's break the meal down by menu section.

Hot

Zucchini with salmon roe, buttery breadcrumbs and a smear of ricotta was our introduction to Chef Romano's cuisine. Steve immediately pointed out the comparison with Roberta's in the plating, which definitely seems to be an influence, but portions were larger across the board, and this necessarily affected how they were plated. The zucchini evoked Italy, but with a common touch: salmon roe. Playing with textures-- the zucchini was crisp and accentuated by the breadcrumbs while the salmon roe burst in our mouths, all lubricated by the fresh, ultra creamy ricotta-- this dish was a promising start.

Something's Fishy at Smorgasburg

My second visit to Smorgasburg, the food vendor version of the Brooklyn Flea Market, was much more pleasant than the first. Less crowded and not as oppressively hot, it was the perfect day to spend outside.

What's good for a hot day (besides cold beers, which I'll get to later)? Seafood and Salad! Sure...

Fryin' on a Prayer

Bon Chovie sells fried anchovies. I got Jersey style, which was described as down and dirty, meaning heads on. Served with a spicy mayo and a couple of pickled peppers, the anchovies were fresh tasting and well fried. There's no better way to start a day.

Brooklyn Star: Deep in the Heart of Brooklyn

Last February Joaquin Baca's year-old restaurant Brooklyn Star burned down. In retrospect that wasn't such a bad thing. For one, we gained Best Pizza, which took over the old space (plus the same serious wood burning oven), and sometimes comes scarily close to fulfilling its bold moniker.

The other benefit is that Brooklyn Star, which reopened in March and whose menu has been updated, but still features a heavily Brooklyn influenced take on classic Texas favorites, is now in a much larger space on the other side of the expressway. This is both an asset and a curse. The interior is oddly bland, with green and white walls and wooden tables and floors. If it weren't for the obligatory hipster waifs you wouldn't know this is Williamsburg. There's a sense of humor though, with a nod to Chuck Norris and a declaration on the menu that the Fritos are sourced from Plano, Texas.

On to the food...

Things I'm Addicted To: Best Pizza

It takes a lot for me (or anyone) to willingly ride the G train. But wait, the G train does take me directly to one awesome place: Best Pizza. I wrote about it after my first visit, but that feels like ancient history after going many (many many) more times in the past few months.

My internal monologue typically involves a death match over what to eat for dinner and how far to travel. Yet when it comes to Best Pizza, I seemingly can rationalize the trip in an instant. Gotta take the G from Long Island City back to Brooklyn? I might as well stop at Best Pizza! Or, I'm in Williamsburg running errands, it would be a crime not to grab lunch/dinner/afternoon snack at Best Pizza! I'm in the East Village? I could take the L and cut back down...

I also rationalize visits by taking people who've never been, like my friends John and Tom this weekend and Steve a few weeks before that (these pictures are Steve's from that visit).

Traif: The Temptation of Taboo

Tasteless or tasty? That was the question many were pondering when Chef Jason Marcus, and his girlfriend, Heather Heuser, opened Traif on the border of South Williamsburg's Hasidic community last April. For the goyim among us (myself included), "traif," is the Yiddish word used to describe non-Kosher food, making it easy to imagine how a restaurant which glorifies such ingredients as shellfish and all things pig could create a substantial amount of buzz from the nearby community (not always positive). However, it wasn't Traif's peculiar name, but rather the pedigree of Chef Marcus (Le Bernardin, Eleven Madison Park) that caught our attention and prompted a visit to see whether the restaurant was more than just a gimmick.

Brunch Bets: Motorino Pizza (Williamsburg)

Heralded pizzaolo, Mathieu Palombino's Motorino is a favorite of mine (and many others) for his irresistible Neapolitan-style pies crafted with a sauce made from San Marzano tomatoes, creamy fior di latte and charred, chewy crusts. But pizza for brunch? I say, why not? In fact, pizza may be one item that has managed to seamlessly infiltrate its way into breakfast, lunch and dinner. Hell, I've even seen dessert pizza. So a few weeks ago, after waking with a fierce craving for pizza mixed with a desire not to stray too far, I decided to hit up the original Motorino located on Graham Avenue in Williamsburg.

Dressler: Season to Taste...

Because everyone likes a little controversy, Eater's post last week about a pissed off patron who "freaked out" after receiving a suggested tip card with their check at Williamsburg restaurant can be viewed as either a cautionary tale, or just another shameless attempt to drum up attention. A majority of the website's faithful took it upon themselves to not only blast the original commenter, but also proclaim to the world how they ALWAYS tip 40%. Thus, it seem as good a time as any to discuss my meal at Dressler from this past Fall.

Having long been a fan of both DuMont and DuMont Burger, MW and I were eager to visit restaurateur Colin Devlin's more refined Michelin-starred sister. Helmed by Chef Polo Dobkin, Dressler has a reputation as being a bastion of Brooklyn fine dining, which may have contributed to my unrealistic expectations, and ultimately resulted in an underwhelming experience.

Brunch Bets: Diner

Over the course of last year, Diner has quietly become my de facto brunch destination. Maybe it's the fact that it's conveniently located in Brooklyn - albeit Williamsburg - or maybe it's the restaurant's ever-changing menu of excellent food that keeps pulling myself, and many others, back for more. Suffice to say, Diner is a most worthy brunch destination, serving up anything but the typical fare you'd expect to find at your garden variety greasy spoon.

Better Pizza

After reading about Best Pizza in the former Brooklyn Star space (it's being "backed" by Joaquin Baca and Roberta's) on Chowhound for the past few weeks, I was determined to try a slice on my next trip to Williamsburg. Bold assertions aside, I wanted more information, yet Google searches for "Best Pizza" proved fruitless (no, I've already been to Best Pizza on First).

Then, earlier this week, Adam Kuban weighed in (very positively) on Slice, complete with a full background (mentioned above). This, coupled with the concurrent realization that the courts were closed for Election Day meant a trip to Williamsburg (on what felt like the first day of Winter) was inevitable.

Fette Sau: Go Meat!

Of all the foods there are perhaps none are more American than barbecue. A quick point of clarification, the word "barbecue" should not to be confused with grilling. Where grilling is a method of cooking with direct heat, barbecue is a method of slowly cooking with indirect heat and smoke. I know, New York is not exactly what you'd call a barbecue destination. We don't have vinegar-based sauces or chopped pork like the Carolinas, have smoke ribs and pull pork like Memphis, tomato-based sauces like Kansas City and even prepare our brisket differently than Texans, but rest assured, there are a growing number of quality barbecue joints in New York City and last weekend a bunch of friends joined The Chief and I in Williamsburg to sample one of New York's best.

Marlow & Son's: An American Bistro

While the word "bistro" is commonly associated with French food, I believe the label is appropriate for any small restaurant serving hearty fare at reasonable prices. Enter Williamburg's Marlow & Son's; a restaurant located in the back of a general store serving up plates of oysters, chacuterie boards and a list of rotating specials. Locals and Manhattanites alike routinely flock to this neighborhood joint for its use of seasonal ingredients, simple preparation and excellent execution. Tempted by a recent Grub Street article highlighting Marlow & Son's Brick Chicken, YW, her husband JC, MW and I decided to visit the restaurant.

Brunch Bets: Pies 'N' Thighs

For weeks I had read countless reports about the re-opening of the beloved Pies 'N' Thighs that specialized in serving crispy fried chicken and homemade pies. Forced to close due to concerns from the Department of Health about their smoker; I wanted to experience first hand what all the fuss was about. But it wasn't until MW and I passed the restaurant's new location under the Williamsburg bridge before we decided to eat there ourselves. Originally it was our intention to eat dinner there; but after reading on Pies 'N' Thighs ever-evolving website that they serve brunch we quickly changed our minds and prepared ourselves for some chicken and waffles.

Peter Luger Steakhouse: A Lunch Worthy of Celebration

Peter Luger Steakhouse is more than just a steakhouse, it's a meat institution. Its name graces any list of the best steaks in America and for over 100 years has encompassed what a New York Steakhouse should be. In fact, it has been voted "America's Best Steakhouse" by Zagat Survey for 26 years and counting. Since arriving to the tri-state area I've eaten my fair share of steaks but have yet to try the steakhouse by which every other is compared to. I'm talking of course about Peter Luger and it wasn't until last Friday that I finally had that opportunity. I'm not sure why it had taken me so long before dining here; maybe it's the reservation fiasco, which, unless you are a regular or someone famous are usually limited to 5:30 or 10:30 options. Ok, so I have no legitimate excuse, but that all changed about two weeks ago when I received a letter informing me that I'd finally be admitted to the New York State Bar. A co-worker of mine suggested that I try Luger's for lunch since I'd already be in Brooklyn and would have no reservation problems since it was lunch and not dinner. Since my family could not make the ceremony MW and her sister YW agreed to document my historic achievement by taking lots of pictures in exchange for a meat coma-inducing lunch.

Zenkichi: A Taste of Japan

Japanese food. Loved by practically every New Yorker, it seems there is a sushi joint located next to the ubiquitous bodega and laundry mat lining every block. I had the pleasure of living and eating my way through Tokyo for almost half a year and think I know a thing or two about Japanese cuisine; so when I left Zenkichi, I felt as if I had was back in Japan. Self-described as a modern Japanese brasserie, Zenkichi offers both a-la-carte and tasting menu options. The omakase menu changes every six weeks to accommodate products at the height of their freshness and MW and I ate the late-winter menu that emphasized some of our favorite ingredients: sea urchin, oysters and scallops.

One regret during my time in Japan was not traveling to Hokkaido to eat fresh uni (sea urchin) and scallops; considered the best in all Japan. Before entering the bamboo-lined exterior of Zenkichi in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, I read the current omakase menu consisted of Hokkaido scallops, Kumamoto oysters and uni from Aomori. It may be more than a mere coincidence that the word "zen" is found within the restaurant name. Entry to Zenkichi is a shock to the senses; darkness save dimly lit lanterns and spotlights on bamboo combined with the sound of water falling transport you from the concrete jungle outside to an intimate space within. Even seating is intimate as parties are led to booths entered though a curtain, shielding you from all other diners. The difference between a good dining experience and a great one is all about the details; something that Zenkichi understands well. One component of eating out that may be the most controversial and subjective is service. Service often toes the line between being too attentive (aka hovering) to non-existent. To remedy this issue Zenkichi, like many restaurants in Japan and Korea employs a silent ringer at each table where guests can summon the server when needed and are otherwise left to enjoy each other's company.

 

Brunch Bets: Egg Restaurant

Brunch...the under-appreciated meal that borrows the best from breakfast and lunch menus. But often we're too tired or hungover from last night and have to settle for some greasy eggs or pancakes that taste of cardboard at the nearby diner. It is for exactly this reason that we are starting the Brunch Bets segment. Our goal, to explore New York's better (and sometimes poorer) brunch experiences in hopes that you can at least have something to look forward to after your walk of shame.