Blackbird: Birds of a Feather Flock Together

While everyone (rightly) attributes the advent of Chicago's fine dining scene to Charlie Trotter, one must not forget the invaluable culinary contributions of Paul Kahan. While associated with several of Chicago's finest restaurants, including Avec, Publican, Big Star and The Violet Hour, Kahan's flagship remains Blackbird. Located in Chicago's West Loop, MW and I made our way to the Michelin starred restaurant for a lunch.

Celebrating Spring and Steve's Birthday with an Epic Roberta's Tasting Menu

So we thought we'd try something a little different for this post. Rather than a traditional write-up, Steve and I instead decided to have an in-depth conversation about our recent epic 15 course tasting menu to celebrate Steve's birthday at Roberta's with Chef Carlo Mirarchi cooking the meal.

Chef Carlo Mirarchi & Duck.

For Steve and I this might have been our most anticipated meal of the year. Our idiosyncratic (but mostly harmonious) opinions after the jump...

Corton: A Pleasant Surprise

Let me preface this post by stating that neither MW nor I had the opportunity to visit Drew Nieporent's former restaurant, Montrachet, or sample the cooking of Chef Paul Liebrandt during his time at both Gilt and Atlas. Having said that, Corton has been at the very top of my "must-try" list for quite some time. Many, including myself, imagined Nieporent-Liebrandt collaboration as a modern day odd couple,  but the critics thought otherwise. First, Frank Bruni (who had quite the checkered past with Liebrandt) gave Corton a glowing three star review in the New York Times. Michelin followed suit, awarding the restaurant two stars in 2010, and again in 2011.

Known early in his career for his complex and at times controversial cuisine (pairing eel with chocolate), Liebrandt was said to have been holding back in order to appease the masses. But old habits die hard, and slowly but surely, whispers that Liebrandt was back to his old ways grew progressively louder and louder until we could no longer resist visiting. Having no idea whether the meal was going to be a disaster or delicious, whatever the outcome, at least we knew the experience would certainly be memorable.

Traif: The Temptation of Taboo

Tasteless or tasty? That was the question many were pondering when Chef Jason Marcus, and his girlfriend, Heather Heuser, opened Traif on the border of South Williamsburg's Hasidic community last April. For the goyim among us (myself included), "traif," is the Yiddish word used to describe non-Kosher food, making it easy to imagine how a restaurant which glorifies such ingredients as shellfish and all things pig could create a substantial amount of buzz from the nearby community (not always positive). However, it wasn't Traif's peculiar name, but rather the pedigree of Chef Marcus (Le Bernardin, Eleven Madison Park) that caught our attention and prompted a visit to see whether the restaurant was more than just a gimmick.

Dressler: Season to Taste...

Because everyone likes a little controversy, Eater's post last week about a pissed off patron who "freaked out" after receiving a suggested tip card with their check at Williamsburg restaurant can be viewed as either a cautionary tale, or just another shameless attempt to drum up attention. A majority of the website's faithful took it upon themselves to not only blast the original commenter, but also proclaim to the world how they ALWAYS tip 40%. Thus, it seem as good a time as any to discuss my meal at Dressler from this past Fall.

Having long been a fan of both DuMont and DuMont Burger, MW and I were eager to visit restaurateur Colin Devlin's more refined Michelin-starred sister. Helmed by Chef Polo Dobkin, Dressler has a reputation as being a bastion of Brooklyn fine dining, which may have contributed to my unrealistic expectations, and ultimately resulted in an underwhelming experience.

A First Draft at Dean Street

New York City has always been a town of high expectations. At first glance, Dean Street seems like it could be a perfectly respectable spot in the underserved Brooklyn neighborhood of Prospect Heights, not too far from my hood. However, when early reports revealed that Chef Nate Smith, formerly of The Spotted Pig was hired by owner John Longo as the new chef at Dean Street, I was immediately excited for the potential of a "Brooklyn Spotted Pig" (as some were prematurely calling it). Sorry, but even if you try to clamp down on the hype (or avoid it entirely), in the New York City dining scene, these comparisons are inevitable.

Seizing our opportunity, Steve, our friend Jonas and myself decided to check out Dean Street on only its second week in business.

Atlanta: "The Burger" at Holeman & Finch Public House

Spending a long weekend in Atlanta, the burger at Holeman & Finch was the one thing I had to try. Long on my "Official List of Burger Anticipation," (the OLBA is accepting 2011 submissions...) the H&F burger is a griddled, two patty monstrosity with everything except the American cheese and red onions made in house. Exactly my kind of burger.

There are two ways to get this burger: either fight through the hoards of people clamoring to get one of a handful of burgers at 10 PM exactly, or go for brunch, when the burger is on the regular menu. We ended up going for brunch after first failing miserably on a Friday night, when my buddy's girlfriend was nastily quoted a four hour wait. We sure showed them by showing up on Sunday morning shortly before their 11:30 AM opening and getting in line...

Warfield's at High Point in Rochester: Location, Location, Location

During my last visit home, I recently left a dinner feeling particularly torn. There I was, having just enjoyed a well thought and executed six-course tasting menu with my family... in the middle of a conference room. Never have I felt a meal's enjoyment so compromised by its surroundings, but that's precisely what happened at Warfield's at High Point. Overlooking Eastview Mall on the partially hidden High Point Drive, Warfield's lies hidden on the first floor of the Constellations Brand office building. But within its corporate facade, unbeknownst to all but a few, is perhaps Rochester's best fine dining establishment.

Brunch Bets: Mark Forgione

Suddenly (and completely out of character), I'm writing brunch posts. I guess Steve has-- at least temporarily-- ceded his "Brunch King" crown to me (I'm sure he'll take it back soon enough). It's not that I'm against brunch-- I just prefer to make my own eggs and drinks at home without dealing with huge crowds/aggravation on weekends. But, on the last day of my parents visit we needed a brunch spot to fill us up before watching what turned out to be another crappy Cincinnati Bengals game.

Pretend it's brunch-time.

I'd previously drooled over Steve's pictures of his dinner at Marc Forgione (from which I've shamelessly reused the exterior picture), and was pretty excited when my mom suggested we go there for brunch (credit where credit is due).

Union Square Café: A Silver Anniversary

In today's economy fraught with economic uncertainties, most new restaurants are lucky to survive their first year, let alone two. Then again, Union Square Café hardly qualifies as an ordinary restaurant. Twenty five years ago, Danny Meyer opened this restaurant, his first at the time, that was predicated on utilizing the freshest product available from the nearby Green Market which served unpretentious, but refined classics. Meyer, an incredible scout for talent, recruited chef Michael Romano who helped earn the restaurant a three stars review from the New York Times. More recently, chef Romano was made partner, with Carmen Quagliata filling his former role. But despite this change Union Square Café has yet to skip a beat, remaining one of New York City's most beloved restaurants.

Telepan: You Are What You Eat

We're all familiar with the saying, "you are what you eat." But how often have you really taken the time to ponder the true meaning of this phrase? If you're like most Americans, the answer is probably not often. But chef Bill Telepan is hardly like most Americans, and since 2005, has been determined to change that mentality at his eponymous restaurant on the Upper West Side. Having earned his chops under the tutelage of such culinary greats like: Alain Chapel, Daniel Boulud and Alfred Portale, Telepan has been featured several times in the Edible Manhattan magazine, championed by Martha Stewart and is crusading for healthier school lunches. By combining his world-class pedigree with the freshest ingredients available, Telepan has successfully won over many New Yorkers to his style of locally driven cuisine, including myself after having enjoyed a recent dinner there.

San Francisco Wrap Up: Brenda's French Soul Food, Zuni Cafe and Fleur de Lys

Brenda's French Soul Food

With no real agenda on our last day, MW and I trekked from our hotel through the Civic Center area of San Francisco to Brenda's French Soul Food. Albeit a bit skeptical about finding authentic Creole food on the west coast, this restaurant intrigued me after reading numerous positive reviews, but we ultimately decided to go due to our craving for some beignets. We arrived to no line and immediately grabbed two seats along the wall that sat adjacent to the kitchen. Service was fast and efficient throughout the meal, and as with any veteran waitstaff, our coffee cups were never empty.

Undecided on which beignets to choose, we naturally decided to split a Beignet Flight which consisted of one of each of the following: Plain, Ghirardelli Chocolate, Granny Smith Apple with Cinnamon Honey Butter and Crawfish with Cayenne, Scallion and Cheddar. Definitely not the best beignets I've had, but solid nonetheless, these thoroughly satisfied our beignet craving. The plain served as a control and was good, not too sweet but not as delicate as others. The crawfish came dusted in cayenne pepper but lacked any real crawfish. However, the granny smith apple was very good, reminiscent of the fried apple pies I enjoyed during youth, only better. But the favorite was the Ghirardelli chocolate-filled beignet that was sweet and rich.

Gary Danko: The People's Choice

Without question, Restaurant Gary Danko is San Francisco's preeminent fine dining establishment. Similar to Gramercy Tavern's status in Manhattan, Gary Danko is the most popular San Francisco restaurant, and with good reason, the food and wine are both excellent and the service is remarkable. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, chef Danko was named one of Food and Wine's best new chefs in 1989, won a James Beard Award for Best Chef California in 1995 and was awarded a Michelin Star. Fusing French technique with seasonal ingredients, Gary Danko's mix-and-match menu allows diners to create personalized three, four or five-course meals and exceeded all expectations.

Ad Hoc: "Temporary Relief From the Ordinary"

After a day filled with an unexpected wilderness hike and lots of wine, MW and I had time to relax before departing for our dinner reservations at Ad Hoc. I know, I know, in a time frame of under 24 hours we would be eating at yet another Thomas Keller restaurant. In my defense (besides them unbelievable deliciousness), Ad Hoc was one of the most highly anticipated meals of the entire trip, especially after MW surprised me with a copy of the Ad Hoc cookbook as a gift. Interestingly enough, the cook book tells the story behind Ad Hoc and details how it was an "accidental restaurant" that came to be. Originally intended to be a burgers and wine bar, Keller selected chef David Cruz to helm the interim restaurant, offering comfort food staples, served family-style. Keller named the restaurant Ad Hoc, a restaurant providing "temporary relief from hunger." While initially reluctant to leave The French Laundry, Cruz guided Ad Hoc to immediate success, creating a legion of devoted following in the process. It was so beloved by its fans that Keller decided to keep the restaurant open and shelve his burger and wine bar plans for the future. After dreaming about and finally having the chance to eat here, I can only hope for a similar restaurant in New York.

Dinner from a Top Chef at Perilla

I entered Perilla with some initial trepidation. Mixed reviews had me pondering whether it was a solid neighborhood restaurant or one that lured unknowing patrons with the siren calls of a reality food television star at its helm. In case you don't remember or simply don't care, owner and Chef Harold Dieterle was the inaugural winner of Top Chef series but was also a sous chef at The Harrison. Through his combination of culinary skills and determination, Harold emerged victorious and true to his word, used his winnings to open Perilla in 2007. I'm happy to report that I found Perilla to be more of the former rather than the later during our dinner experience. Bolstered by a 30% off coupon from Blackboard Eats, Perilla proved to be surprisingly good as I found chef Dieterle's juxtaposition of flavors, textures and temperatures a winning combination.

Marc Forgione: Back to Basics

Recently, the balance in the foodie universe was turned on its head when Marc Forgione kicked New York Times Financial Writer Ron Lieber, out of his restaurant after he had dressed down the chef in his own kitchen. Regardless of where you stand on this incident, it certainly put Marc Forgione's restaurant in the headlines. They say there's no such thing as bad publicity, but as provocative as this story is, I feel much of the attention is misdirected. Instead of focusing on what was said, the real story should emphasize Forgione's no-nonsense approach to cooking rather than who hurt who's ego.

A few weeks before this incident occurred, MW and I enjoyed dinner at Marc Forgione's eponymous restaurant in Tribeca.

A Dinner Worth Traveling for at Saul

As is the usual case, a typical Friday night for me involves grabbing dinner with MW and possibly getting drinks later with friends. After a long week of work, the prospect of staying in and cooking just doesn't seem too appealing. Though MW and I have made it a habit of eating out in Manhattan, recently we have made a conscientious effort to dine out more in Brooklyn. And why not? While there was a time when Manhattan was the premier restaurant destination for all of New York City, Manhattanites are now traveling to destinations such as Brooklyn and Queens to satisfy their epicurean desires. Saul has been on my shortlist of "must-try" restaurants in Brooklyn for awhile now. So last Friday evening MW and I made the short trip to Smith Street instead of crossing the Brooklyn Bridge.

Colicchio & Sons Just Doesn't Add Up

At this point of his career it's debatable whether Tom Colicchio is better known as the head judge for the popular reality-based television series, Top Chef or for his culinary skills that garnered him fame as the executive chef of Gramercy Tavern. One may surmise that the inspiration behind Colicchio's newest restaurant, Colicchio & Sons, came from a desire to resolve this identity crisis and reclaim his status as one of New York's premier chefs. Having previously ranted about the seemingly arbitrary rating system of New York Times food critic, Sam Sifton, I was predictably floored when he awarded Colicchio & Sons three stars, recommending the $135/person tasting menu after having just penalized SHO Shaun Hergatt for having such an ostentatious concept in this economy. With my interest peaked, I looked forward to a dinner at Colicchio & Sons with MW, YW and JC to see if the new restaurant deserved such lofty praise and whether Colicchio had successfully reclaimed his identity behind the stove instead of the television camera.

Dinner with a Fussy Eater at Blue Ribbon Brasserie

Last week I had plans for a celebratory birthday dinner with my good friend, AW. A fellow attorney working in Manhattan, AW and I met during law school and have stayed close in spite of having vastly differing personalities and preferences. One such discrepancy between us is food, as AW is far from what I'd consider a "foodie." I was given the particular task of choosing the restaurant and knowing some of her likes (frozen Yodels) as well as her dislikes (anything not Korean or steak), I opted for Blue Ribbon Brasserie. Open until 4 a.m. and being known as the preferred after-hours destination for many New York City chefs, Blue Ribbon boasts an impressive and well-executed menu that even AW would approve of, or so I hoped...

Marlow & Son's: An American Bistro

While the word "bistro" is commonly associated with French food, I believe the label is appropriate for any small restaurant serving hearty fare at reasonable prices. Enter Williamburg's Marlow & Son's; a restaurant located in the back of a general store serving up plates of oysters, chacuterie boards and a list of rotating specials. Locals and Manhattanites alike routinely flock to this neighborhood joint for its use of seasonal ingredients, simple preparation and excellent execution. Tempted by a recent Grub Street article highlighting Marlow & Son's Brick Chicken, YW, her husband JC, MW and I decided to visit the restaurant.