Kyochon Chicken: Still, Only a Tease...

Like a prude high school girl, Kyochon has been nothing but a tease to New York lovers of Korean fried chicken (Kfc). Marred by one delay after another the "original" Kfc chain finally opened its doors in Manhattan a couple of weeks ago. Already having outposts in both coasts (L.A., Bayside and Flushing), the much anticipated opening of the Fifth Ave. location was not well received in the blogosphere. A combination of excessive prices, long waits and tiny wing size resulted in yet another closing; this time for purposes of re-training as reported by Midtown Lunch. As quickly as it had opened, Kyochon had closed its doors again; leaving New York with proverbial "blue balls." So last Friday MW and I decided to experience Kyochon ourselves. 

There is perhaps no greater fan of Kyochon than myself. To this day, the best fried chicken I've tasted was from a Kyochon Chicken in Seoul. Yes, Bon Chon and Mad for Chicken are good, as was Bon Bon when it was open, but I was ecstatic when I heard Kyochon finally opened, or rather re-opened. When I arrived at the restaurant I was a bit confused. Was this a fried chicken restaurant or the outside of Studio 54? Employees complete with walkie talkies and clipboards manned the roped off doors and instructed a mostly Asian crowd to form a line outside. Like a scene from a Walmart on Black Friday the crowd became restless for their fried chicken. Fortunately, there was no trampling incident, and those of us in line were treated to takeout menus and complementary Grilled Drumsticks with Hot and Spicy Sauce. As I ate my "drumstick" in two bites, that was more reminiscent of a frogs leg than a chicken leg, I began to worry that all of the initial reports were correct and my hopes for convenient Kfc would be dashed. Unfortunately, the chicken tasted a bit dry and aside from the flavor of the sauce which provided some nice heat and had a faint smoke taste was nothing worth buying. In my opinion this product was Kyochon's attempt to capitalize on the grilled chicken pandemonium that swept the U.S. after KFC launched their grilled version.

The Other KFC: Korean Fried Chicken

I'm Korean...well at least I'm part Korean and so in 2007 when I read this NY Times article praising Korean-style fried chicken I couldn't be prouder. My first and most memorable experience to date with Korean fried chicken was in a Kyochon in Seoul, 2005 (Hey, I never claimed to have discovered it). Compared to KFC and all previous fried chicken I had eaten thus far this chicken was remarkably not greasy and much more flavorful. A bold sweet and spicy glaze covered a incredibly thin and crispy skin that encased moist succulent meat. Since the NY Times article was published there have been some small changes in the New York City Korean fried chicken scene. The old Bon Chon Chicken at the corner of 32nd Street and 5th Ave is now Mad for Chicken (see Midtown Lunch post) and the old Bon Bon Chicken on Chambers Street is now a Bon Chon Chicken.